WHERE'S ALL THE PROSECCO GONE?
Someone mentioned to me last week
that there was shortage of prosecco - first I'd heard about it. There is no
doubt this Italian fizz is a favourite in our household and not only among the
older adults. The youngsters love it too. Infact, a highlight of last year's
summer holiday in Tuscany was a discovery by the 20 somethings in our party
that they could buy a a bottle of prosecco for 2 euros from the local
supermarket. They lived on it for a week!
So has the prosecco all gone?
Yes, according to the national food and drink magazines. There really could be
an impending global shortage of our favourite fluted tipple and I can confirm
that it is a national favourite! We Brits have in recent years have taken
more than a simple fancy to prosecco. We guzzle the stuff by the bucket load –
even sampling the odd glass from taps as we would a cold beer, or pint of West
Country cider. Sales of prosecco were up by a staggering 75 per cent in
the UK last year. We spent a whole £1 billion on the Italian fizz, and for the first time it overtook sales of Champagne. Leading
import company Bisol has confirmed that the UK buys more of it than
even Italy does.
It’s common knowledge now that
the recent recession caused us to resort to prosecco as a celebratory
alternative to Champagne. Its affordability is the main attraction, as well as
the fact it’s easy drinking. But there’s a fly in the
ointment, as attendants at the recent London Wine Week discovered. Export manager at
Bisol, Roberto Cremonese, said that this summer could spell disaster. He told
The Drinks Business: “Last year’s harvest was very poor, and down by up to 50
per cent in some parts, so there is a very real possibility of a global
shortage. “We’ll find out how big the
problem is in August when the brokers release their stock. At the moment we
don’t know how much Prosecco they’re holding on to.”
This really is worrying for us prosecco lovers – summer
barbecues just won’t be the same without these bubbles. (If only we’d
had the knowledge to foresee such barren times and realise that there are
other great alternatives such as cava, or fizz from the Cremant region in
France.) Now it appears our
cost-efficient love affair with prosecco could be about to go flat – whether we
like it or not. Cremonese explained that such is the seriousness of the
situation that prosecco is now being released onto the market slowly by Italian wine merchants. It’s an opportunity indeed for prices to
rise – in some cases “by 50 per cent.”
According to the Daily Telegraph's wine
columnist Susy Atkns it’s hard to believe that the Veneto, one of two main Prosecco regions, will
really run out. As Atkins noted, DOC prosecco (cheaper than the more refined
DOCG wines, which largely escaped the poor harvest) can be made in a very wide
area and the grapes are high-yielding. But Cremonese said that such high
demand has fuelled rapid planting and caused many DOC vines to be newly
planted; in turn, they ended up failing. “The grapes were rotten and yields
were down by half in some cases,” he told Drinks Business. It seems some of the
vines were planted in the wrong place, in a bid to “supply everybody.”
Deputy editor of The Drinks
Business, Lucy Shaw, told the Telegraph more about the nightmare situation: “It's
difficult to tell at this stage which way the pendulum will swing, but last
year's prosecco harvest was significantly down on 2013. The DOC region was the
worst hit, meaning the problem will impact most on entry-level rather than top
tier DOCG prosecco.” With global demand for the Glera
grape (that's the one makes prosecco) at an all-time high, Shaw really believes
it could be that there won’t be enough of the Italian bubbles to go round – at
least at their current super-cheap price points. “We’re likely to see the end of
sub-£6 prosecco in the UK, so lovers will have to be prepared to spend a little
more,” Shaw explained.
Adam Porter, from wine importer
Jascots, told the newspaper that he was aware of the situation, and the company was preparing for
the summer drought. “We are aware of the short
harvest across the prosecco region and have made arrangements with our partner
to ensure our on-trade clients are kept in stock,” Porter told the Telegraph reporter. However, he
did concede that while Jascots is well-placed to continue its supply, it has
also launched another sparkling Italian wine, VinoVispo. Who knows how that brand will do.
If you are a panicking prosecco drinker then remember that there are
countless other great fizzes to enjoy with your barbecue other than our favoured Italian prosecco.
Spanish cava, Cremant d'Alsace from France, and even sparkling wines from
Australia, New Zealand and Blighty itself all do the trick. It seems it's about time we tried
a change. Because, well, it appears we’ve drunk all the prosecco.
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